on-line poker

[Pat494]

The sorry saga continues. The $100 was taken out of my account by either pokerindicator or Empire. They blame each other. A real nuisance as I have had to cancel my card just in case the guilty party takes some more !! I suppose PI got the signing on bonus.
The pokerindicator program does actually work on Empire. However it blots out much of the picture unless truncated ( some of the info then is not visible ). I think it may be better to learn the "should do" info, as decision time is short too. Perhaps it takes practice.

 

[adrianallen99]

You should be able to see who took the money from your credit card statement.

 

[Pat494]

You should be able to see who took the money from your credit card statement.

According to Barclays a company called acqua took the money. I have emailed both to see which one owns up.
Just had a go on the higher table. All of 5-10 cents. And made a modest 58c in 1/2 hour.

 

[adrianallen99]

Acqua isnt what appeared on my credit card statement when I deposited with Empire Poker.

According to Barclays a company called acqua took the money. I have emailed both to see which one owns up.
Just had a go on the higher table. All of 5-10 cents. And made a modest 58c in 1/2 hour.

 

[Pat494]

Acqua isnt what appeared on my credit card statement when I deposited with Empire Poker.

Well both emails have been returned - which means I guess, I can kiss that $100 goodbye.
I suppose there is a lesson to be learned there somewhere - looking on the brighter side.
phishing probably.

 

[adrianallen99]

If its on your credit card, go to them and say you believe the money was taken fraudulently.

 

[Pat494]

Had another look at the software - it's better than I first thought. With practice it could even be useful enough to compensate for the$100. It was just the cavaleir way it sort of vanished !

I seemed to have picked up a "friend" called Roy Rounder on my meanderings - can't remember where but he has sent some interesting articles which I have reproduced.

Patrick,

The dealer position (known as the "button") is the
best position at the poker table.

The reason is because when you're on the button,
you get to act LAST after the flop... giving you
the chance to see what your opponents do first.

This lets you get a "read" on your opponents at
the table... and decide who has a strong hand, who
has a weak hand, who's bluffing, and so on.

OK, so that's common knowledge.

What's also common knowledge is the fact that LATE
POSITIONING is preferred over EARLY POSITIONING...
because once again, you get to see what your
opponents do first before it's your turn to bet,
raise, call, or fold.

Of course, being on the button is BETTER than just
plain late positioning... because the button
GUARANTEES that you will be LAST TO ACT post-flop.

OK, now here's what is NOT common knowledge...

Once you understand positioning and its enormous
implications, you can begin "improving" your
positioning and setting yourself up for more pots
each game.

The technique is called STEALING THE BUTTON.

It's simple... it's practical... and right when
you're done reading this newsletter you can
immediately start using it.

Stealing the button is LEVERAGING your late
positioning when you're NOT on the button... but
getting all the same benefits as if you WERE on
the button.

Remember, the dealer position is SO POWERFUL
because it means you're LAST to act post-flop.

Being SECOND TO LAST to act isn't nearly as good,
especially considering there's usually only three
or four players to a flop at an 8-man table.

So what you do is make a reasonable pre-flop RAISE
when you're in late positioning... and therefore
force the player on the button to fold.

Having done this, you'll be last to act after the
flop... the same as if you actually were on the
button. (Hence the name, "stealing the button").

OK, let's look at an example so you can see what
I'm talking about:

Let's say you're sitting two seats to the RIGHT of
the button at a 10-man table. The game is $1-2 no
limit Holdem.

Two players limp-in... and you look down at your
cards: J-9 of clubs.

I call hands like these "semi-connectors"--
they're not quite connected... but almost.

The great thing about semi-connectors is that
they're a "hidden hand". When they HIT (straight,
flush, two pair...) your opponents NEVER see it
coming.

You decide to play your Jack-9 suited. Now
remember, there are two players BEHIND you that
will act post-flop if they both call the blinds.

So it's YOUR JOB to make sure they DON'T limp-in.

The solution is to crank up the pressure...

You make it $15 to play. Nothing crazy (after all,
you don't exactly have a monster). You simply want
to force the two players to your left to FOLD...
which will happen most of the time.

Of course, they won't always fold... because
sometimes they'll pick up a big hand. But odds are
they'll fold.

The RESULT, of course, is now YOU have the button.

Well, not the button exactly... but all the
advantages that it brings.

Sure enough, the two players to your left fold,
and Josh-- who's in the big blind-- is the only
caller.

The flop comes out:

10h-8d-Ks

No flush possibilities for you here, but BINGO,
you've just flopped an open-ended straight draw.

This is the type of flop you hoped for.

Now it's on Josh to act first. And this is where
your positioning is so important. Not only do you
get to see what Josh does first... but you also
have the CONTROL in this situation.

Since you made the pre-flop raise, Josh will
likely check the flop to you... giving you the
opportunity to play aggressively and take down
this pot.

No matter what happens after this, you've set
yourself up to win this pot. Sometimes Josh will
pick up a real hand and come out firing... but
usually not.

Sure enough in our example, Josh checks.

You throw out a $30 semi-bluff. This is a bet you
should make even WITHOUT the open-ender... because
you made the pre-flop raise.

Josh mucks it, and you rake the chips... leaving
the table wondering what you had.

That's how you "steal" the button. It's a simple,
surefire way to gain control at the table by
improving your positioning.

There are five main steps you need to know...

1. You need a playable hand.

If you're going to bluff, make it a "semi-bluff"
by raising with a hand that can hit... something
like semi-connectors.

I personally don't like raising with 7-2 offsuit
or crap like that. It seems to me like an "ego
raise" more than a logical play.

Remember, the key is to gain that extra bit of
control and power by acting LAST after the flop.

2. Force out the player on the button (and
possibly the player to his right).

The whole point to stealing the button is to
ACTUALLY STEAL THE BUTTON. If you make a wussy
raise that doesn't scare anyone, you've failed.

If you're one seat to the right of the button, you
want to raise enough to force the player on the
button out. If you're TWO seats to the right, then
you've got to force out both players to your left.

One of the "secrets" to this process is to ALWAYS
pay attention to the pre-flop betting patterns of
your opponents on the left.

If you're sitting on the right of "Tight Tim" who
only sees flops when he's got pocket pairs, then
you can steal the button quite often.

On the other hand, if you're on the right of a
LOOSE player, you won't be able to steal the
button nearly as much.

So pay attention.

3. After the flop, your opponents will usually
check to you.

Notice if someone bets into you, beware. That's a
red flag. Usually players will check into you
since you raised pre-flop.

When players check into you that gives you the
power to either BET and try to steal the pot right
there... OR... get a free turn card by also
checking.

While I normally recommend a bet, you can check to
mix it up once in awhile or in the case that
you're getting short-stacked.

4. Don't get pot-committed.

Remember, stealing the button is a simple
technique that improves your position and sets you
up to have a BETTER CHANCE at winning the hand.

Don't get stupid. Don't get stubborn and bet any
amount in hopes of bluffing out someone with a
real hand.

Like I said, you need a playable hand to steal the
button in the first place.

Don't become pot-committed... Never bet so much
that it's PAINFUL to fold your cards after the
flop.

5. Sometimes you don't need to raise to steal the
button.

Often the blinds will be high enough where you
figure simply CALLING the big blind will get you
the button (this is especially true when you're to
the right of a tight player).

Also, someone in front of you might raise the pot
enough that all you have to do is CALL THE RAISE
and you'll get the button.

OK, so that's the process...

Here are the two types of situations where you DO
want to steal the button...

DO STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:

1. You sense weakness and want to steal the pot on
a bluff or hidden hand.

2. You have a good hand that you want to play
post-flop.

On the other hand...

DO NOT STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:

1. You have a poor hand and you sense someone
else has a strong hand.

2. You think someone to your left will call a
raise no matter what (that defeats the purpose).

The MOST IMPORTANT lesson you can get from all
this is to realize that winning poker depends on
ALL THE LITTLE THINGS.

Stealing the button is just a little technique for
setting yourself up for better positioning... it's
not a "game changing" strategy that will double
your poker profits or anything.

But when you combine it with ALL THE OTHER LITTLE
THINGS-- like establishing the right table image,
throwing out feeler bets, representing the flop at
the right times, buying free cards, picking up
betting patterns, spotting tells, and more-- then
you will become a DYNAMIC and POWERFUL poker
player...

AND THEN your poker profits will double.

A lot of amateurs base their games on the "big
hands" and might get lucky once in awhile. But
over time, the REAL MONEY always goes to the
GRINDERS... the guys who know how to CONSISTENTLY
take down pots.

It takes a lot of discipline, don't get me wrong.

But you can do it.

And I can SHORTCUT the amount of TIME you spend
doing it by showing you the STEP-BY-STEP PROCESSES
for all those "little things" that will transform
you into a winning poker player...

Not to mention... I'll show you the "big things":
the pro-level tactics that most players never EVER
learn.

So if you're ready to take your skills to the next
level, click here and download my easy-to-read
eBook "No Limit Holdem Secrets".

It's jam-packed with hundreds of strategies and
tactics, along with step-by-step examples and
more.

This is a no-brainer investment for any poker
player, considering you'll instantly DOUBLE your
money with this course.

So have the discipline to INVEST in your skills--
rather than LOSING that money at the tables
because your competitors know THESE secrets...

Just go to this webpage and click the "Get The
eBook FREE" button on the left side. You'll be
reading the book within TWO MINUTES:

http://www.RoyRounder.com/e_res?o=3&m=7&i=374238&s=12

I'll write to you again soon.

Your Friend,

Roy Rounder

 

[adrianallen99]

I have Roy Rounders ebook and as ebooks go its actually pretty good. There is a lot of filler stuff and could have done with more detail in places, but an interesting read.

 

[Pat494]

Please please please post anything of interest about poker here. It's a bit of a minefield.
Which are the sites one can trust with one's deposit and which aren't safe ??
Some genuine info to cut through the slick sales blurb would be most helpful
.

 

[Pat494]

Roy's been posting again. Hardly no sales pitch yet.

Hey Patrick,

OK, let's talk about the "smooth call".

A smooth call is when you're holding a REALLY GOOD
hand and someone bets into you... but instead of
RAISING, you simply CALL.

The smooth call is VERY POWERFUL, but a lot of
players totally mess it up. Here's how to do it
RIGHT...

Let's say you're playing a cash game of no-limit
holdem at a 10-man table. The blinds are $5-10.

You're sixth to act before the flop (good
positioning) and you pick up pocket Aces...

Nice!

A couple players limp-in and the action is to
Drew, who's an aggressive player.

He makes it $125 to play.

This is a rather large pre-flop raise at this
table. The normal pre-flop raise has been between
$50 and $75 up to this point.

You immediately put Drew on something like pocket
Jacks or tens.

Why?

Because you know that if someone makes an
UNUSUALLY large pre-flop raise, it's probably
because they have a hand they DON'T want to play.

And quite often that hand is 10's or J's.

So anyway, the next guy folds and now the action
is to you with your monster American Airlines.

What should you do?

This is an ideal situation for a smooth call.

Here's why:

You know Drew is going to bet again after the
flop-- regardless of what hits-- since he made
such a large pre-flop raise.

And you also know that you've got Drew beat right
now. If you call his bet, there's no way he's
going to put you on Aces.

If you RAISE, Drew is going to be scared. Because
RAISING after a big bet means you must have a
monster. And that basically gives away your hand.

OK, so you make a smooth call and put $125 in the
middle.

Everyone else mucks their cards, so it's just you
and Drew to see the flop.

The flop comes out a "rainbow" (which means there
are three different suits on the board):

8-7-4

This is the perfect flop for you. You figure Drew
has a pocket pair HIGHER than the cards on the
board, which means he'll be confident betting his
hand.

The only thing to be WORRIED about is if Drew has
pocket 8's, since that would mean he just made
trips. If he DID have trips, he'd probably check
after the flop and fake weakness.

So anyway, the action is to Drew and... as
expected... he comes out firing a $250 bet.

What now?

Well, you could come back over the top of him and
take this pot right now. Or you can do ANOTHER
smooth call and go for the kill.

You think for a few moments... hesitate... then
smooth call.

The turn card comes and it's a four, which is
PERFECT for you.

Drew doesn't hesitate and puts his last $500 into
the pot now... thinking he has the best hand.

You call, and throw over your monster Aces.

Drew shakes his head in disgust and throws over
his pocket Queens.

And you win a massive pot.

Now, that's basically the "ideal" way the smooth
call works. Let's discuss the RIGHT CONDITIONS
when you'll want to make a smooth call... and how
you can add this powerful move to your "poker
toolbox"...

*** CONDITIONS FOR A SMOOTH CALL ***

The smooth call is the combination of two main
components:

ANTICIPATION + SLOW-PLAYING

The INTENTION of the smooth call is to FOOL your
opponents while letting them dig their own grave.

Here's what I mean...

The smooth call operates on the fact that you
ANTICIPATE that your opponents will continue
betting... AND... that you have the best hand at
the table.

When your opponents think THEY have the best hand,
they'll be confident with their betting. They'll
become pot-committed... and will get frustrated
that you won't back down.

That's when they'll make a mistake and go all-in,
or simply bet too much, and you'll come out on
top.

There are four main "conditions" for performing a
smooth call... Here they are:

1. You don't need to figure out where you're at,
because you KNOW you have the best hand.

2. You ANTICIPATE future bets from your opponent.

3. You have good positioning.

4. You're not worried about too many players
getting in the hand.

The first condition basically means you should
only smooth call when you have really good hands.
We'll talk about the EXACT hands to smooth call
with more in a minute.

We've already gone over the second condition...
you need to ANTICIPATE future bets from your
opponent. Most of the time, players who raise
before the flop will bet AGAIN after the flop.

The third condition is POSITIONING. You can't
perform a smooth call if you're first to act. Then
what you're doing is just check-calling your
opponents... which ISN'T the same thing.

And the final condition for a smooth call is that
you're not at risk of having lots of players in
the hand.

This last condition is important because it will
help you prevent bad beats.

Basically, when you have a monster hand before the
flop, you want to narrow the field down to one or
two callers...

If you have three or more players seeing the flop,
your monster will get run down by someone who gets
lucky.

In the example I shared earlier, Drew had made a
large pre-flop raise of $125. That meant there was
no danger of too many players calling...

If the pre-flop raise had been only $40 or so, it
would NOT have been a good situation to smooth
call... because the raise would have gotten
multiple callers. And then you're at risk of a bad
beat.

OK, so those are the conditions that need to be
present in order to make a smooth call.

Remember, the REASON a smooth call is powerful is
because it "represents" something like a draw,
low pocket pair, or hand like A-K, A-Q, or K-Q.

If you smooth call before the flop, your opponent
will probably put you on something like suited
connectors, two face cards, or a low pocket pair.

After the flop comes out and your opponent THINKS
he has you beat, he'll keep INCREASING his bet
sizes to try to scare you out. This is a
fundamental poker principle...

For each successive round of betting, the bets and
raises will INCREASE. The bets after the flop will
be larger than the bets before the flop. The bets
after the turn will be larger than the bets after
the flop. And so on.

In our example, if you came back over the top of
Drew BEFORE the flop, he would have folded. That
means you would have won his $125.

At MOST he may have called a $125 raise from
you... but then would have check-folded after the
flop. In that case, you would have won his $250.

But by smooth calling, you got BOTH his $125 bet
(pre-flop) and $250 bet (post-flop)... and then
by smooth calling again you got his remaining
$500.

The key is to trick your opponent into thinking he
has the better hand... and let HIM take the
offensive. If you can do that, you're money.

*** HANDS TO SMOOTH CALL WITH ***

You want to smooth call before the flop with hands
like Aces or Kings. You DON'T want to smooth call
with something like A-K or A-Q.

Big Slick is a great hand... don't get me wrong...
but it's not "complete". By itself, Big Slick is
just an Ace high. If the flop doesn't help you and
your opponent comes out firing, you're in trouble.

If you're going to smooth call after the flop or
turn, you'll want to do it with hands like trips,
two pair, or an over pair (like in our example).

Trips and two pair are usually "hidden" from your
opponent, which is why they make great smooth call
hands. (Remember, it's all about making your
opponent think he's got the best of you.)

OK, TWO MORE THINGS to keep in mind...

First off, there are DANGERS to smooth calls. The
main danger is if your opponent catches a better
hand than you.

You should be ready for this if there's something
on the board like a straight draw, flush draw, or
two face cards.

Let's say you smooth call before the flop with
pocket Kings and the flop comes out 3-Q-6, all
diamonds.

If your opponent comes out firing aggressively, be
careful. He wouldn't come out betting UNLESS he
felt like he's still got you beat.

I mean, think about it: Those three diamonds are
going to SCARE him... unless they HELPED him.

It's the same way with flops like 10-J-Q, K-K-5,
K-Q-10, J-A-3, and so on. If there are two face
cards out there, your opponent might have just
made trips or two pair. If there's a straight draw
on the board and he's not scared, YOU should be
scared.

The second thing to think about is how you can
INTEGRATE the smooth call into the rest of your
game...

The smooth call is a "maneuver" or "play". It will
bring you tons of extra pots and winnings when
added to the STRONG FOUNDATION of your poker
skills.

To build your foundation, I recommend that you
PLAY poker as much as possible and LEARN about the
game as much as possible.

My book, "No Limit Holdem Secrets", will show you
step-by-step what you need to know to become a
VERY impressive card player.

You'll get my Texas holdem tips, insights, and
easy-to-understand techniques-- all together in
one simple download.

You can get it right now. Just click here:

http://www.NoLimitHoldemSecrets.com/e_res?o=3&m=9&i=374238&s=12


Your Friend,

Roy Rounder

 

[Trader333]

The above is actually pretty good, I have also bought the book by Matthew Hilger and have started reading it. I will comment when I have completed it.


Paul

 

[adrianallen99]

I have attached a free poker strategy ebook called OnlinePokerStrategy - it is free and okay to distribute. The ebook is okay and there is some useful stuff in it, but it is distributed by a poker room so if there are any issues with me posting it here just let me know and ill remove it. (or the moderators can do it for me )

 

[Pat494]

Thanks Adrian
That bit about poker calculators etc. especially interesting. I'm surprised they don't have games where they are allowed and others where they are not.
Being only a beginner I find I'm struggling to cope with all the information generated and have to take my time a bit.
Poker player profiles ... well that is something !!!

looking forward to your views on the book Paul

 

[Bigbusiness]

Are there any plans for a T2W poker room? I see ADVFN and MoneyAM have started them. Would be a nice little earner for T2W.

 

[adrianallen99]

Thanks Adrian
That bit about poker calculators etc. especially interesting. I'm surprised they don't have games where they are allowed and others where they are not.

For cash/ring games It is probably in the pokerrooms interest that more people use Odds Calculators as it would mean people are likely to stay in the game longer and therefore generate the pokerrooms more money.

 

[Bigbusiness]

Some podcasts:-

www.vcpoker.com/podcast/index.htm

 

[adrianallen99]

Thanks BB, very interesting site.

 

[Pat494]

Another offering ( I have no connection other than a punter )

Hey Patrick,

It's so simple...

And so obvious...

Yet no one seems to get it!

What's this easy-to-use secret for beating Sit and
Go tournaments online?

The answer is this:

PATIENCE.

I know... I know... you were expecting something
more, um... "secretive".

But the truth is, winning at Sit and Go's is
pretty damn easy. I find them easier than "real"
poker games, actually.

And that's why every time I turn on the computer
these days I feel like a kid in a candy store...
ready to clean out the amateurs at the poker room
of my choosing.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

What I want to discuss here is why PATIENCE is so
critical for Sit and Go success.

First, let's get back to some basics. There are
four types of poker playing styles:

1. Tight-Passive
2. Tight-Aggressive
3. Loose-Passive
4. Loose-Aggressive

Your style should be tight-aggressive.

Don't confuse "styles" with "preferences". If you
want to be a good card player, you DON'T get to
DECIDE to be tight-aggressive.

You MUST be tight-aggressive in order to be good.

Period.

Of course there are DEGREES of each playing style,
and that's what accounts for the differences
between one pro and another... the DIFFERENT
DEGREES of tight-aggressive.

OK, now let me ask you:

What does "tight-aggressive" really MEAN?

Here's the answer:

It means that you play TIGHT in terms of hand
selection, but AGGRESSIVE when you enter a pot.

Be careful... "tight" and "aggressive" are not
opposites. "Tight" and "loose" are opposites. And
so are "aggressive" and "passive".

TIGHT refers to hand selection. AGGRESSIVE refers
to betting.

OK... so this is how playing styles relate to Sit
and Go's...

The NATURE of Sit and Go's makes them OVERRUN by
LOOSE-AGGRESSIVE style players.

The reasons are simple:

1. You can play a Sit and Go virtually anytime,
anywhere, and with anyone.

This means there's very low risk in LOSING, since
you can easily just move on to the next game. It's
not like in "offline" poker when once you get
knocked out you're DONE.

2. The money seems less "real".

Let's be honest... We all know the feeling of
making a deposit into an online poker account and
thinking to ourselves how it doesn't quite feel
like REAL MONEY. Am I right?

3. There's no "embarrassment".

Online poker is virtually 100% anonymous. If you
make a stupid move, you're not worried about what
the other players THINK of you. Who cares?

After all, the other "players" are really just
silly little avatars on an animated screen.

OK, so those are three (there are many more) of
the reasons why Sit and Go's (and pretty much all
of online poker) are dominated by the playing
style LOOSE-AGGRESSIVE.

Loose-aggressive is also known as the "manic" playing style. And what's the FASTEST way to beat
a manic?

Yep, you guessed it...

PATIENCE.

The reason is because MANICS are constantly
playing many hands (loose) and doing so
aggressively.

What happens is that it's difficult to get a READ
on them because you never know whether they're
bluffing or not... unless you call their bets...
which you can't do because you don't have that
great a hand.

Has this ever happened to you?

Have you ever been up against a player who seemed
to be playing VERY aggressively and you just
couldn't figure out if they were bluffing or
holding great cards?

And then when you got FED UP with it and DID make
a call, he had you beat?

My guess is that it HAS happened to you... just as
it's happened for me.

The key thing to know is that THERE ARE certain
steps you can take to defend this. (I even wrote
an entire chapter about this topic in my book.)

But fortunately in Sit and Go's, this isn't really
much of a problem. Because you're usually not up
against just one or two manics. You're up against
an ENTIRE TABLE of them.

That means you shouldn't be CALLING anyone's bets.

Instead, YOU should push the action when you have
a monster hand... and ONLY when you have a monster
hand. And that, of course, requires...

PATIENCE!

It's actually much easier this way. Because with a
table full of manics, you can rely on getting
action with all your great hands.

(I should point out here that I'm generally
referring to Sit and Go's where the entry fee is
less than $50. When the stakes are higher the
quality of play is usually more intelligent.)

OK, so what I'm about to tell you might take some
of the "fun" out of Sit and Go's. But it will
increase your profits dramatically...

Here's what your Sit and Go "experience" should
look like when the field is from 8 or 10 players
down to 4 or 5 players.

**************************************************

If your hole cards are...

A-A, K-K - Go all in pre-flop if you're in early
position. If in late position and there was a
raise, go all-in. If people were just trying to
limp in, make a raise... and then bet very
aggressively after the flop.

Q-Q, A-K - If you're in an early position, bet
big (but not all-in). If you're in a late
position, use your read on the other players to
determine whether or not you think you have the
best hand. If so, bet huge or go all-in.

All other pocket pairs - Limp-in. If you spike
trips, go all-in. If not, fold.

Suited connectors - Limp-in if the blinds are
reasonably low. Fold suited connectors under 7-6.

Ace-X suited - Limp-in if possible. Only bet if
you hit the flush.

All other hands - Fold.

**************************************************

What you've just seen will be completely different
than most "starting hand strategies" out there.

And that chart is NOT for all types of no limit
Texas Holdem. We're ONLY talking about games that
match these three criteria:

1. Online poker Sit and Go tournaments
2. Low stakes (under $50 entry)
3. While there are more than 4 or 5 players at the
table (in an 8-man or 10-man Sit and Go)

DO NOT use that starting hand advice for any other
poker games... because that's NOT how you should
play your starting hands in general.

So why would Sit and Go's be so much different
than "normal" poker play?

Like I said before, the reason is because Sit and
Go's are heavily dominated by loose-aggressive
players... and THIS is how you beat those guys.

Why exactly does this strategy work?

It works because you're only playing monsters.

Now... if the players at Sit and Go's were SMART,
they'd OBSERVE that you're only playing monster
hands... and they'd FOLD as soon as you went
all-in.

I mean... it only makes logical sense, right?

Indeed, this is how it works in live games. But
not online. Because for online poker there's
another important factor working to your
advantage...

NO ONE'S PAYING ATTENTION!

The truth is, many players are either drunk,
hungover, stupid, or playing multiple tables at
once. Or all of the above!

They're not paying attention to your betting
patterns. They're just playing the CARDS, not the
PLAYERS.

I call my strategy for patiently waiting for
monster hands and then going all-in:

"Tight-Aggressive Squared"

The reason is because my strategy is like the
playing style tight-aggressive... but on STEROIDS.

Why go all-in so much?

It's like I said... you WILL get action. Maybe not
every single time, but enough times to make it
well worth your while.

For Sit and Go's, all you need to do is double-up
ONCE before the field gets to 4 or 5 players.

THEN you can start playing aggressively. What will
happen is that the 4 or 5 players LEFT IN THE GAME
will usually be the smarter ones. And some of them
WILL notice by now that you're playing tight.

SO THEN what you do is steal blinds. It's easy.

Everyone tightens up when there are four or five
players in a hand because they want to make the
money... and they want to be VERY CAREFUL to make
it into the top three.

That is when you steal some blinds and add to your
chip stack.

Then, after that point you'll be in third place
and will be in the money.

I have a ton of strategies for getting you into
FIRST place too (after you get down to three
players), but I'll have to save those for a
different newsletter.

You know, when I first came up with this strategy
of "Tight-Aggressive Squared" I wasn't COMPLETELY
convinced it was the best way to win at Sit and
Go's.

At the time, I had been trying a lot of things.
The idea of just being EXTREMELY PATIENT and then
going all-in with monster hands seemed a little
TOO SIMPLE.

Right?

Then one night, I was at a 10-man Sit and Go. I
went all-in with a big hand early and doubled up.
It was the only hand I got really involved with.

Then... with 9 players still at the table... my
Internet shut off. I didn't know what happened.
All I know is that the Internet just plain STOPPED
WORKING.

I would have called someone... but it was past two
in the morning.

I messed with it for like fifteen minutes and then
just gave up. Oh well... it's just one Sit and Go.

Anyway... I started working on something else on
my computer for awhile until all of the sudden the
Internet came BACK on.

I logged into my poker room to see what had
happened with the game. Immediately the screen
POPPED-UP and the action was to me...

I was still in the game, it wasn't over yet!

Not only that...

But there were only three players left!

I was in third, but still had some remaining chips
to play around with.

I immediately went all-in and everyone folded.
Then I did it again and everyone folded. And a few
hands later I did it AGAIN.

I picked up three enormous sets of blinds and was
right back in the game. The reason everyone was
folding was because I hadn't played a hand in 25
minutes. They were probably wondering what the
hell was going on!

Anyway, as it turned out, I actually WON 1ST for
this Sit and Go. First place baby... and my
Internet only worked for about 1/5 of the game!

After I was done I started thinking about what had
just happened. I realized that by PLAYING in a Sit
and Go you can often do MORE DAMAGE THAN GOOD when
there are lots of players at the table.

And of course, I became 100% convinced that the
"magic equation" for success is:

PATIENCE + AGGRESSION

Your goal for these games should be to place in
the money as much as possible. Period. So why risk
chips on silly hands early on?

They're just not worth it...

The other thing about this strategy is that it's a
HUGE time-saver. Because it doesn't require hardly
any work until there are 4-5 players left. It
makes it MUCH easier to play multiple tables at
once... or do other things while the Sit and Go
plays in the background.

OK, so here's your "Tight-Aggressive Squared" Sit
and Go strategy:

1. Be patient, be patient, be patient!

Only play the hands I showed you earlier. Only bet
before the flop with Aces, Kings, Big Slick, and
Queens.

2. When you catch a monster, go all-in. Don't do
this if you think someone has you beat (i.e.
there's an obvious straight or flush draw on the
board).

I'm talking about only playing hands when you know
you have the best odds of winning.

3. When the field gets down to four or five
players (depending on how high the blinds are and
how many all-in showdowns you've won), shift gears
completely and STOP using this "Tight-Aggressive
Squared" strategy.

That, my friend, is the "secret" to Sit and Go's.

It's obvious... but not-so-obvious.

But it is DEFINITELY simple.

And you can start implementing it IMMEDIATELY...

For hundreds more "insider" tips and strategies
about Texas Holdem poker, check out my book. You
can download it IMMEDIATELY on this page:

http://www.NoLimitHoldemSecrets.com/e_res?o=3&m=8&i=374238&s=12

I'll show you everything you need to know-- all
the "tricks", pot odds, bluffing strategies, trap
plays, and more-- to start making TONS of
spare-time profits playing poker.

If you're ready for poker success, click here:

http://www.NoLimitHoldemSecrets.com/e_res?o=3&m=8&i=374238&s=12

Talk to you again soon.

Your Friend,

Roy Rounder

 

[Bigbusiness]

Interesting that the pro's on late night poker last night were saying that it is better to play more hands early in Sit and Go's. The reason was that there is a lot of "dead money", players that are poor and don't know what they are doing. It should be easier to take their chips and build up enough chips to not have to be concerned about stack size later in the tournament.

This is the opposite of the advice other pro's give, to play extremely tight early on. Just goes to show that there are many ways to play. A good player can probably use either strategy.

 

[Pat494]

[B]Dodgy internet poker sites[/B]
There have been developments which should interest others starting out on the poker trail.
I have been contacted by Barclays Bank credit control dept. They are looking into the affair with Pokerindicator.com to see if there is a case of fraud.
Being of a cautious nature I thought why win money on these poker sites, if they may never repay it. So I withdrew small amounts from the following sites I had deposited money with:-
1. Poker Party
2.Noble
3. Poker Room
Poker Party repaid $200 into my account promptly
Noble still haven't repaid $25
Poker Room still haven't repaid $50.
My accounts on both sites have been reduced by the said amounts but the money never arrived back in my account ?
It just might be something to do with my cancelling my card a week after the money was requested but it doesn't look good.